A Conversation with Fort Lonesome's Founder Kathie Sever, Part One.

On creativity, the necessity of regular income, and platforming others while maintaining a brand.

Kathie Sever

As we continue in this series focusing on creatives in the fashion space, I am so pleased to introduce our next conversation partner, Kathie Sever, the founder of of Fort Lonesome, a chain-stitch embroidery and western wear brand based in Austin, Texas. Kathie was an early adopter leading the charge in the revival and rebirth of chain stitch embroidery, a mechanized application of thread to textiles creating all manner of embellishment. In the case of Kathie’s approach, by blending her background in oil painting with traditional embroidery techniques, she has created a distinctly painterly approach to the medium. Her reverence for nature touches every stitch, while Kathie’s unique aesthetic lends a modernity and emotion to the form that is unparalleled. The Fort Lonesome team are also known for the bespoke suits and apparel they have created for the likes of Jenny Lewis, Miranda Lambert, Bill Murray, Diplo, The Bros Fresh, and Post Malone, as well as their collaborations with Levi’s, Wranglers, Billy Reid, and Madewell, among many others. The original artwork that they regularly create marries the wild variety of prompts provided by their clients (prompts such as: a beloved dog, mycelium, a state flower, and lightning; or a heartfelt phrase, place of birth, and a sacred talisman), and is matched only by the technical prowess by which they apply their craft. Not only experts in chain stitch embroidery, her studio employs some of the best talent in tailoring, and their custom suits average 200 hours to stitch and assemble from start to finish. They also produce ready-made and customizable patches and accessories to keep their work accessible to the significant audience they have attracted.

I first met Kathie and the team of incredible designers, chain stitchers, and storytellers that make up the Fort Lonesome brand when we were all on the road together in Los Angeles. We were showing work at an installation alongside several other Austin-based creatives back in 2015, including LAND, who you will hear more about in our conversation. I was travelling solo and I immediately felt bonded with her and her beautiful crew that instantly made the entire trip feel like a sleepaway camp, absolutely diffusing all of the nerves and tension that can come when supporting yourself through your creativity. They even escorted me to my rental car in a desolate parking garage after our opening night wrapped, being the kind of open-hearted and aware humans to never leave a fellow woman and traveler to fend for herself.

Every subsequent visit I have made to the Fort Lonesome studio or one of their innumerable pop-up events where they often chain stitch on-site has been studded with the same magnetism. When you encounter this kind of alchemical magic, a creative team that seems to sparkle, to vibrate, one that makes you dearly want to remain close, ever nearer to their orbit, the cause is usually in the leadership. In the case of Fort Lonesome, it certainly holds true that it is the vision, vulnerability, authenticity, and purpose of Kathie, as well as the way that she platforms and empowers her team, that has cast just such a spell.

More than ten years into the operation of Fort Lonesome, Kathie’s quick and contrarian-leaning mind continues to thrive on the tensions an independently funded creative enterprise navigating the capitalist marketplace must endure in order to persist and evolve as hers has. I caught up with Kathie just as her team had undergone a massive change to its central line up, and as she is personally navigating the wilds of perimenopause. We revisited the fascinating trajectory of Kathie’s creative career, and examined the many contradictions inherent to making a living and supporting a team from creative and heartfelt work.

Dear reader, you are in for the gift of gut-punching honesty and paradigm- shifting blows to your perspective in this two part conversation. Now on to part one with my deepest thanks to Kathie for her time and sincerity.

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